Project Runway All Stars: Whatever I Want

It doesn't matter that I've missed writing about the last six Project Runway All Stars episodes, right? Right. I'll just "catch up" with the last two.

"Flapper Fashion Face Off"
I like face offs. They bring out a little more intensity in the competition, and I think it's a good reality check for both the judges and contestants when side-by-side comparison is forced upon them. Since one of the up and coming trends is once again looking back to the 20s (I've been seeing it crop up here and there ever since I first saw The Great Gatsby trailer months ago), the challenge felt immediately relevant for once. Each set of faced off designers had a different 20s theme as their inspiration and parameter.

Emilio & Joshua: Afternoon Garden Party
Anthony Ryan & Ivy: Social Soiree
Uli & Laura Kathleen: After Hours Speakeasy

Joshua: This was probably my favorite look ever from Joshua despite the fact that the color combo, at least from the front, looked a bit old and dowdy. He should have put that lime stripe in the front too and left all the other fussy details off. He's always shooting himself in the foot with "more is better."

Emilio (winner of face off): I did like Emilio's look better than Joshua's, at least idea-wise. It wasn't an iconic 20s silhouette, but I bought his slightly stretched argument about it being a 20s-30s transitional dress...and admittedly I was partially swayed because I absolutely adore Emilio's personality. The lace cutouts were lovely, and his vintage-inspired print was a great choice, but the length looks more calypso than vintage.

Ivy: Oh, Ivy. I was shocked that she didn't go home for the last challenge. And this week she was wide of the mark again, but managed to scrape by. Her fabric was truly beautiful, but how she made it look so heavy and cumbersome is beyond me. I actually think her beaded fabric mixed with that grey leather could have been something amazing, but she didn't actually design anything, she simply constructed an ill-proportioned, mediocre sheath.

Anthony Ryan (winner of face off): I mean, y'all should know by now how much I love this boy. I'm certainly glad he won the whole challenge, but I can't say his design was perfect. Certainly 20s, certainly well-constructed and thought out, but still not a wow. But no one was a wow, so the best of the okay sometimes takes the cake.

Uli (winner of face off): I had mixed feelings about Uli's dress. There was nothing offensive, but nothing eye-catching either. I didn't understand the shoulder wrap, but her dress moved beautifully and was well-made.

Laura Kathleen: I was absolutely shocked that LK was out. Aside from the fur vest, this was one of her best silhouettes. I loved the color and the amount and placement of the sparkle was just right. No, it was not perfect as is, and no, it wasn't the best of the challenge, and no, I don't love LK, but the design certainly wasn't go home material. Ivy and Joshua have the same problems over and over again and they keep turning up like bad pennies.

"There's No Business Like Sew Business"
This last week the designers were challenged to make a modern, sophisticated, and feminine dress for designer Elie Tehari. They also had to keep their garment at a retail price point of $500-700. (Which isn't really all that difficult if you ask me.)

The bottom two were Josh and Ivy, but the funny thing is that if Ivy had listened to her critique and swallowed her pride (like Emilio did), she would have been in the top three, because the top of the dress was pretty great. Instead she went home with her nowhere length dress that had slits that cheapened the whole look.

This also meant that Joshua had a very narrow escape. Everyone agreed that his color and base fabric choice was absolutely gorgeous, but he couldn't not add and add to it until he ruined it. The lace and exposed zipper quickly took to the look to "lady of the night," and we don't really need to go into the droopy boobs nonsense.

Uli's look was okay for me. The silhouette and execution were fantastic, but it looked a little too much like crochet, and I do not enjoy crocheted clothes. (Yes, Virginia, fabric choice is key.) I'm not exactly tired of her doing white dresses, but I would like to see her do something else, because I like Uli and want her to be in the top.

I like Emilio's color choices and silhouette. Of course, as the judges mentioned, mustard can be hard to wear, but it doesn't mean that it's unsalable. In fact, a lot of "high fashion" I see is hard to wear in some way, yet it still seems to sell.

But my wee lamb Anthony Ryan wins again! Which is okay by me. He's remarkable in his ability to create clean, sharp looks that don't all look the same, and this challenge was no exception. The neckline could use a little pattern adjustment, and I might play with the proportions of the color blocking a bit, but that's all a bit nitpicky.

Project Runway All Stars: "Whose Dream Do We Buy?"

First, I loved Austin's sparkly jacket and pink socks, I loved Mondo's silver shoes, and I hated Georgina's dress. It was Big Bird-y and unflattering. Also, Angela's halting dialogue felt forced and torturous.

Now to taking care of business. Everyday. Every way.

Austin's Collection
I admit that I eliminated Austin for the win as soon as he again described his bizarre mix of inspirations...something about vampires and Hasidic dandies. In fact, I laughed out loud. On top of that his collection wasn't entirely cohesive and he had a few other problems. But like the judges said, he really did have a couple of amazing pieces, which really were his best work of the season.

I loved the simple sequin jacket, but pannier-inspired pants is one of the silhouettes that I've always hated in fashion. They seem to crop up every time a designer is inspired by Madame de Pompadour. And speaking of weird volume, his evening dress had too much in too many places, thus losing the person wearing the dress. He should have gone with volume in one place or the other. But even if he didn't have the long peplum, the fullness in the mermaid part is a little too over-the top and maybe even clownish.

I didn't much care for Austin's leatherette pieces. The peek-a-boo netting in the back of the skirt looked inelegant while the model walked. Also, did you notice that the flanges on the sleeves were unfinished and unraveling? But I actually think he would sell that jumpsuit, although no one I know would wear it.

The lacquered lace dress was the perfect combination of hard and soft. The flounce detail in the front gave some volume to the dress without adding volume to the model's figure. I really liked this one.

I absolutely loved the wedding dress. The proportions of the layers were perfect, and adding that bit of shine at the belt was genius. I could've done without the black gloves, but it was Austin's wedding, and he would look great in those gloves.

Michael's Collection
When Michael's collection first walked the runway, I thought he had a real chance at the win. But in retrospect I think he simply had the safest collection, which is reflected in the fact that I only took one note for him. There was nothing I hated, but nothing I truly loved either.

This was dress had my only note. I really liked the seaming and piecing on the bust, but it got lost in the print and you can't even see it in this picture.

Other than that I don't have anything to say about the rest of Michael's collection except that it I've seen it before, it was well-made, and he can sell it to his resort-based customer with no problem.

Mondo's Collection
I can't say I loved every piece in Mondo's collection, but his collection was definitely the best overall, and I am certainly over the moon about his win! He really deserved it. He was the most consistant throughout the season, and I think his collection was the most sellable to the widest market.

I have confused feelings about Mondo's finale dress. I like it, but I feel like I shouldn't for some reason. I think it reminds me of the 90s somehow, and since I believe nothing good came out of fashion in the 90s (hyperbole intended), I cannot fully embrace the dress. But at the same time, I don't have a problem with it. What were your impressions?

The first two outfits might be his most sellable. I liked them both, but I could have done without the pockets on the dress.

The Rorschach print on the dress was so great, but I really, really, really wanted the model in a bra. (I'm with you Joanna!)

The top made with the fabric from other challenges was great--flattering and totally sellable. But the hem needs a different finishing technique to help it hang better.

I simply adored the wide-leg pants even though the flaps were just a wee bit too large. Side note: this outfit was worn by the model he used all season, and she always looks so stiff-armed and awkward. It's very strange.

Congratulations Mondo!

Well, we've come to the end of Project Runway: All Stars, and it looks like the next regular Project Runway series won't air for a few months. I've got a few ideas for fashion-related posts, but what I'd really like to write about are things you want to hear about. It can be anything about fashion, styling, sewing, what have you. I would be happy to research things within these topics that you want to know more about, or just share with you what I already know. So please, hit me with your wants, needs, hopes, and dreams.

Project Runway All Stars: Finale Eve

Final Challenge: A mini collection of 5, no wait 6, looks.

Time: 4 days.

Budget: $3,000

As soon as Angela described the challenge, Mondo's face set into a panic. Then the whole episode centered around his immediate tailspin into terror and self-loathing. I suppose the producers had to pick a theme since they weren't about to show us any finalized fashions before the finale, and Mondo's personal struggle and process was as good a theme as any.

But I really enjoyed the format of this episode and how it played out...aside from Mondo's tantrum. (He's still my favorite.) I thought it especially nice that the designers got these mini mentoring sessions with Joanna, Georgina, and Isaac. It helped calm and center the designers. My favorite moment was at the end of Georgina's visit when she ever so gently called Mondo out on his mood and attitude. He bitterly explains to her that "he's tired of everyone telling him what to do." She gracefully, patiently, and kindly says, "That's okay." That's okay. With two words she empathically allows him his process no matter how tumultuous and dark it is, and he's able to cut himself some slack and move on. It felt like magic. Although I'm sure editing had something to do with that.

And that's all I really have to talk about for this finale eve episode, because no one seems to be taking a surprising tack with their collection. We'll just have to wait and see who does their aesthetic best.

Quotes!

Austin describing his inspiration: "It's Fraganard, Madame de Pompadour, 21st century rockstar, Williamsburg, Hasidic gentleman." Cut to Anthony laughing hysterically. Just... I don't... Huh? 

Austin does a little dance while looking at a dress: "I'm having a glamour excitement fit!"

Mondo seeking advice for a dress: "Now that I put the sleeves on, I don't know if it takes it into wizard territory."

Mondo on Austin's moustache: "He went from Errol Flynn to Kermit the Frog." It was a little mean, but apt.

Other!

Non-episode related but Project Runway related, I saw these tops by designer Vince Camuto on the Nordstrom website this week.

Don't they remind you of something else you've seen on the runway this season? Boom.

Project Runway All Stars: Pre-Finale

Here we are again, the episode that decides which designers will be in the finale. I thought it an interesting challenge for the finale setup. Meaning, the previous challenges were all about pushing creativity to the far nether regions of fashion that often negated practicability, but this challenge was about setting parameters on creativity in order to make aesthetic and point of view sellable. A challenge that gives the designers a real marketable budget really forces the designers to get down to the brass tacks of their aesthetics. It's the reality behind the runway, not unlike taking the photoshop element out of a glossy magazine spread. Of course this makes the runway seem less punchy than in past weeks, so nothing was a gasp-wow.

The designers were required to make a ready-to-wear garment for New York designer and fashion district advocate Nanette LePore. Not only did she ask for the design to be feminine, timeless, and customer driven, but the designers also had to account for manufacturing costs and stay within a strict production budget in order to meet a specific price point. The winner will have their garment produced and sold by Nanette LePore with proceeds going to savethegarmentcenter.org.

First, the "Mondo doesn't sketch" drama. In most challenges this is not a problem, and in this case I think he worked around the problem okay. But I both agree and disagree with Kenley (and it's none of her business in the first place) that Mondo needs to sketch in order to be a designer. On one hand sketches smooth the path of translating ideas into realities in a world where Mondo isn't creating everything from start to finish. But if he figures out another way to communicate his ideas clearly to a pattern maker, then yippie-yay-ki-yay. On the other hand I think he would better service himself as a designer if he at least learned to sketch in some way, even if he traces over croquis. (Croquis: a line drawing of a 9-head fashion figure that can look something like this.) I'm not sure if this practice is against the Project Runway rules, but it a perfectly legitimate way in fashion and costuming to produce sketches. I'm sure some look down on this and shame it, but it's not about the sketch, it's about the final product.

Despite Mondo's seeming un-designerly attributes, he won the challenge. I will admit that his reaction to winning made me a little misty. (But that's not saying much because I am an acute bawl-baby.) His dress really screamed what Mondo is all about: color and mixing patterns within clean lines. Would I wear this dress? No. Do I really like it? Yes. Will other people buy this dress? You betcha. You can buy it here. I'm excited to see what he comes up with for the finale!

Austin was second in line, and he also produced a dress that screams what he's all about: romantic silhouettes with extreme femininity, which likely includes loads of volume. I was torn with Austin. I thought the overall silhouette of the swing coat was great. The fullness and amount of pleats were in good proportion. However, the neckline looked like a mistake, and I was absolutely horrified by the hem. The stitching pulled the hem in weird ways and it needed to be pressed so badly, as did the belt and the rest of the coat. (Here's a little tip for all you burgeoning sewers out there: pressing accounts for at least 50% of the final appearance of your garment. The more you press as you go, the more professionally finished your garment will look.) All Austin's problems may have stemed from poor fabric choice. Also, the garment did not photograph well in the least.

Michael came in third with a dress that we've seen from him before, but it was pretty enough. I thought the print was particularly lovely. But if a dress plunges in the front it should not plunge in the back and visa-versa. Without that counterbalance it's impossible to keep the dress on the shoulders unless you use tape or body glue. It fails all wearability tests, and wearability was part of the challenge. For this reason Michael was particularly lucky that he didn't go home.

Last and eliminated was Kenley. This dress bothered me for all the reasons various people mentioned and more. I suppose it was nice enough in idea, but I had the following problems: 1) she shouldn't have used that large print for this silhouette, the design fights with the fabric; 2) she should have at least tried to match the pattern and/or place the pattern more carefully when cutting; 3) the trim on the sleeves ruined the inherent movement of the fabric; 4) the neckline was too high which killed the proportions; 5) she should have kept the keyhole; and 6) all things said and done this dress is frumpy. Additionally I could not believe the attitude she gave Nanette LePore during the workroom critique. She can't even listen to critique let alone internalize any advice that might help her improve her designs or sellability. She kept saying she was "sticking to her vision," but no one was ever trying to change her vision, they were honestly trying to help her make the best possible version of her vision. P.S. The outfit that Kelney wore for judging was adorable.

One more week and then what fashions will we discuss? Leave ideas in the comments if you got 'em.

Project Runway All Stars: Avant-Garde in Lights

This week the designers were required to use lights to make avant garde designs that would be shown on the runway under black lights. Even more specifically, the design had to be appropriate for a stage performance for one of renaissance man Pharrell Williams' musical clients. (Client unspecified.)

Now, avant-garde challenges aren't my favorite. I suppose I just want some semblance to practicability in fashion, no matter how small that semblance may be. In light of that, I find that critiquing this challenge was about immediate gut feeling more than anything else.

For the most part my gut agreed with the judges this week, except for Austin's winning design. I'm not romantic in nature or in aesthetics, so I just wasn't crazy about his dress. I was impressed with the shape he got out of that giant overskirt, but I thought the rest of the dress looked a little sloppy and ill constructed. Or course, none of that really matters when you turn off the lights, and it really was refreshing that he didn't use neon. I did agree with the judges that the lights should have been distributed more throughout the skirt and between layers of netting and tulle.

I may sound like a broken record, but again Mondo was my favorite. I'll admit that it's probably because his design was the least "out there." After I poo-pooed his styling last week, he really ramped it up to make a complete look. I loved the weird little helmet he made. It was all very TRON. He also showed a lot of forethought in incorporating his lights by encasing them in the design rather tacking them on top like the rest of the designers did, and in that respect he was more innovative.

Kenley's dress was her same old dress shape. I could not for the life of me understand why she didn't match the plaids on the bodice! Again! But with a top covering it, I suppose it didn't really matter. However, the construction of the dress and the spacing of the plaid she made with the tape looked practically flawless. I have to say that I kind of loved that gird top she made. It was wacky but interesting. I think it would have been even better if she sandwiched lights between two layers of that grid fabric and made it glow from the inside.

I was worried for Michael. I did not like his outfit when it turned the corner. The general dress silhouette with the stiff loops in the front was great, and I loved the big lights running on the inside of those loops. It was the over-abundance of neon green and that shapeless "bow" on the back that got me down. But with a little editing of the neon tape, and throwing that "bow" straight in the trash, I can totally picture Lady Gaga in this getup looking all sorts of ninja.

I thought Jarell was going somewhere great with his dress in the beginning. That peplum piece was looking fantastic. But as soon as his outfit turned the corner I knew he would be in the bottom simply based on the maxi pencil skirt. It made the whole look awkward and cumbersome. He was also too heavy handed with his styling, which really weighed everything down. And so, he was eliminated. I can't say that I'm terribly sorry to see him go.

Afterthoughts:
Was it just me, or did everything look much better in the online photos than on the television?

Did you see Austin's silver and black sequin top in the first 15 minutes of the show? It was incredible.

How lame was it when Joanna said this challenge was certainly the most "electrifying" challenge on PR? Serious eye rolling happened.

"They're called fairy lights...coincidentally enough." Austin describing the lights he purchased.

"I live for Teletubbies. Seriously." Isaac Mizrahi, ladies and gentlemen.

Bonus from the PR website: The many faces of Austin Scarlet.

Project Runway: All Stars: Flags of the United Nations

I have decided that I do not like Angela as a host. There's nothing terribly offensive about her, but she's so unnatural on screen. Instead of projecting with normal intonation, she starts speaking in a loud monotone and it grates on my nerves. Petty? Maybe. But if you're talking a lot on TV, your voice should not be hard on the ears.

Moving on.

Is it just me or were the designs this challenge uninspired and drear? It seems to me that one would be steeped in inspiration when considering not only a country's flag, but its history and culture as well. In fairness, with a time-crunch it would be easy to fall into the trap of cliché and stereotypes. (I'm looking at you Jerell and Michael.) But the fact remains that not one of the designs made me sit up and say "boy-howdy"!

Mondo's was the best this week with his Jamaican flag inspiration, so his win was deserved. (At the moment I can't think of a harder dress to wear, but when has runway fashion ever been about wearability?) I disagreed with Isaac's opinion that the geometric strap down the back "ruined" the dress by being too literal. If Mondo had presented this dress outside of the flag inspiration, I don't think that would have been an issue at all. If anything "ruined" the dress, it was the styling. It's time for me to admit to the hard fact that although Mondo is a great designer, he can't style worth beans. His clothes speak volumes so he doesn't need heavy styling, and I wish someone could pull him aside and explain that to him. (Side note: Mondo's own hair was so fantastic this episode.)

As a point of interest I looked up guest judge Catherine Maladrino's American flag dress, and what is it if not literal with a pretty flowing fabric and a nice cut? (Apparently celebrities and socialites wore it to express patriotism after 9/11, but I don't recall seeing it before now.)

I didn't hate Kenley's Chilean flag dress, I just didn't see what it had to do with the challenge. Sure, she used the colors in the flag, but I didn't and don't get "Chile" from that dress. She gave some explanation about current street-style in Chile (which I'm sure she hasn't researched), but I think it was mostly a cover story for her penchant for sameness in her designs. I was happy that Isaac called her out on that issue. Let me be clear, I don't think Kenley is a terrible designer, but an obnoxious one whose inspiration is so narrow that it ends up doing her a disservice.

Michael rounded out the top three with his Greece flag dress. Everything that the judges said about this dress was true. It was too low and wide in the back opening, it was borderline pageant, and it had too much fullness in the draping. However, it was a nice enough dress. The white sequined trim was gorgeous.

I was shocked Jerell didn't go home with his mess of an Indian flag dress. The judges thought he had some good but unrefined ideas in the jumble, but I didn't see it. Anything he did have going for him was nulled by that overly blousy, green sari sash. There was nothing flattering about it. That green shade was a little sad and dusty for India as well. 

Austin, oh Austin. I like him so much, but the more I'm exposed to his aesthetic and designs, the less talented I think he is. Not only did his dress look tortured and overwrought, but the color palette was too dusty for his Seychelles flag inspiration. His styling is really always about the old lady look. In the end I thought his design looked more inspired by the grecian urn scene in The Music Man.

Mila went home this week with her Papua New Guinea design. She kept referencing "freedom" in the episode, but freedom certainly didn't come across in her finished design. Jerell was right saying that the dress looked more inspired by communism, especially when you consider the styling. Mila suffers the same malady is Kenley, meaning that Mila's narrow focus on color blocking and geometrics often does her a disservice. I will say this, Mila's construction skills are fantastic. Her garment looked sharp and polished as far as construction goes.

Favorite quotes:

"This isn't 'Greased Lightning,' this is more Greece frightening." Mondo about Michael's dress.

"I could feel his suffering in the workroom." Georgina Chapman talking about how tortured Austin's dress looked.