Project Runway All Stars: "Whose Dream Do We Buy?"

First, I loved Austin's sparkly jacket and pink socks, I loved Mondo's silver shoes, and I hated Georgina's dress. It was Big Bird-y and unflattering. Also, Angela's halting dialogue felt forced and torturous.

Now to taking care of business. Everyday. Every way.

Austin's Collection
I admit that I eliminated Austin for the win as soon as he again described his bizarre mix of inspirations...something about vampires and Hasidic dandies. In fact, I laughed out loud. On top of that his collection wasn't entirely cohesive and he had a few other problems. But like the judges said, he really did have a couple of amazing pieces, which really were his best work of the season.

I loved the simple sequin jacket, but pannier-inspired pants is one of the silhouettes that I've always hated in fashion. They seem to crop up every time a designer is inspired by Madame de Pompadour. And speaking of weird volume, his evening dress had too much in too many places, thus losing the person wearing the dress. He should have gone with volume in one place or the other. But even if he didn't have the long peplum, the fullness in the mermaid part is a little too over-the top and maybe even clownish.

I didn't much care for Austin's leatherette pieces. The peek-a-boo netting in the back of the skirt looked inelegant while the model walked. Also, did you notice that the flanges on the sleeves were unfinished and unraveling? But I actually think he would sell that jumpsuit, although no one I know would wear it.

The lacquered lace dress was the perfect combination of hard and soft. The flounce detail in the front gave some volume to the dress without adding volume to the model's figure. I really liked this one.

I absolutely loved the wedding dress. The proportions of the layers were perfect, and adding that bit of shine at the belt was genius. I could've done without the black gloves, but it was Austin's wedding, and he would look great in those gloves.

Michael's Collection
When Michael's collection first walked the runway, I thought he had a real chance at the win. But in retrospect I think he simply had the safest collection, which is reflected in the fact that I only took one note for him. There was nothing I hated, but nothing I truly loved either.

This was dress had my only note. I really liked the seaming and piecing on the bust, but it got lost in the print and you can't even see it in this picture.

Other than that I don't have anything to say about the rest of Michael's collection except that it I've seen it before, it was well-made, and he can sell it to his resort-based customer with no problem.

Mondo's Collection
I can't say I loved every piece in Mondo's collection, but his collection was definitely the best overall, and I am certainly over the moon about his win! He really deserved it. He was the most consistant throughout the season, and I think his collection was the most sellable to the widest market.

I have confused feelings about Mondo's finale dress. I like it, but I feel like I shouldn't for some reason. I think it reminds me of the 90s somehow, and since I believe nothing good came out of fashion in the 90s (hyperbole intended), I cannot fully embrace the dress. But at the same time, I don't have a problem with it. What were your impressions?

The first two outfits might be his most sellable. I liked them both, but I could have done without the pockets on the dress.

The Rorschach print on the dress was so great, but I really, really, really wanted the model in a bra. (I'm with you Joanna!)

The top made with the fabric from other challenges was great--flattering and totally sellable. But the hem needs a different finishing technique to help it hang better.

I simply adored the wide-leg pants even though the flaps were just a wee bit too large. Side note: this outfit was worn by the model he used all season, and she always looks so stiff-armed and awkward. It's very strange.

Congratulations Mondo!

Well, we've come to the end of Project Runway: All Stars, and it looks like the next regular Project Runway series won't air for a few months. I've got a few ideas for fashion-related posts, but what I'd really like to write about are things you want to hear about. It can be anything about fashion, styling, sewing, what have you. I would be happy to research things within these topics that you want to know more about, or just share with you what I already know. So please, hit me with your wants, needs, hopes, and dreams.

Project Runway All Stars: Finale Eve

Final Challenge: A mini collection of 5, no wait 6, looks.

Time: 4 days.

Budget: $3,000

As soon as Angela described the challenge, Mondo's face set into a panic. Then the whole episode centered around his immediate tailspin into terror and self-loathing. I suppose the producers had to pick a theme since they weren't about to show us any finalized fashions before the finale, and Mondo's personal struggle and process was as good a theme as any.

But I really enjoyed the format of this episode and how it played out...aside from Mondo's tantrum. (He's still my favorite.) I thought it especially nice that the designers got these mini mentoring sessions with Joanna, Georgina, and Isaac. It helped calm and center the designers. My favorite moment was at the end of Georgina's visit when she ever so gently called Mondo out on his mood and attitude. He bitterly explains to her that "he's tired of everyone telling him what to do." She gracefully, patiently, and kindly says, "That's okay." That's okay. With two words she empathically allows him his process no matter how tumultuous and dark it is, and he's able to cut himself some slack and move on. It felt like magic. Although I'm sure editing had something to do with that.

And that's all I really have to talk about for this finale eve episode, because no one seems to be taking a surprising tack with their collection. We'll just have to wait and see who does their aesthetic best.

Quotes!

Austin describing his inspiration: "It's Fraganard, Madame de Pompadour, 21st century rockstar, Williamsburg, Hasidic gentleman." Cut to Anthony laughing hysterically. Just... I don't... Huh? 

Austin does a little dance while looking at a dress: "I'm having a glamour excitement fit!"

Mondo seeking advice for a dress: "Now that I put the sleeves on, I don't know if it takes it into wizard territory."

Mondo on Austin's moustache: "He went from Errol Flynn to Kermit the Frog." It was a little mean, but apt.

Other!

Non-episode related but Project Runway related, I saw these tops by designer Vince Camuto on the Nordstrom website this week.

Don't they remind you of something else you've seen on the runway this season? Boom.

Project Runway All Stars: Pre-Finale

Here we are again, the episode that decides which designers will be in the finale. I thought it an interesting challenge for the finale setup. Meaning, the previous challenges were all about pushing creativity to the far nether regions of fashion that often negated practicability, but this challenge was about setting parameters on creativity in order to make aesthetic and point of view sellable. A challenge that gives the designers a real marketable budget really forces the designers to get down to the brass tacks of their aesthetics. It's the reality behind the runway, not unlike taking the photoshop element out of a glossy magazine spread. Of course this makes the runway seem less punchy than in past weeks, so nothing was a gasp-wow.

The designers were required to make a ready-to-wear garment for New York designer and fashion district advocate Nanette LePore. Not only did she ask for the design to be feminine, timeless, and customer driven, but the designers also had to account for manufacturing costs and stay within a strict production budget in order to meet a specific price point. The winner will have their garment produced and sold by Nanette LePore with proceeds going to savethegarmentcenter.org.

First, the "Mondo doesn't sketch" drama. In most challenges this is not a problem, and in this case I think he worked around the problem okay. But I both agree and disagree with Kenley (and it's none of her business in the first place) that Mondo needs to sketch in order to be a designer. On one hand sketches smooth the path of translating ideas into realities in a world where Mondo isn't creating everything from start to finish. But if he figures out another way to communicate his ideas clearly to a pattern maker, then yippie-yay-ki-yay. On the other hand I think he would better service himself as a designer if he at least learned to sketch in some way, even if he traces over croquis. (Croquis: a line drawing of a 9-head fashion figure that can look something like this.) I'm not sure if this practice is against the Project Runway rules, but it a perfectly legitimate way in fashion and costuming to produce sketches. I'm sure some look down on this and shame it, but it's not about the sketch, it's about the final product.

Despite Mondo's seeming un-designerly attributes, he won the challenge. I will admit that his reaction to winning made me a little misty. (But that's not saying much because I am an acute bawl-baby.) His dress really screamed what Mondo is all about: color and mixing patterns within clean lines. Would I wear this dress? No. Do I really like it? Yes. Will other people buy this dress? You betcha. You can buy it here. I'm excited to see what he comes up with for the finale!

Austin was second in line, and he also produced a dress that screams what he's all about: romantic silhouettes with extreme femininity, which likely includes loads of volume. I was torn with Austin. I thought the overall silhouette of the swing coat was great. The fullness and amount of pleats were in good proportion. However, the neckline looked like a mistake, and I was absolutely horrified by the hem. The stitching pulled the hem in weird ways and it needed to be pressed so badly, as did the belt and the rest of the coat. (Here's a little tip for all you burgeoning sewers out there: pressing accounts for at least 50% of the final appearance of your garment. The more you press as you go, the more professionally finished your garment will look.) All Austin's problems may have stemed from poor fabric choice. Also, the garment did not photograph well in the least.

Michael came in third with a dress that we've seen from him before, but it was pretty enough. I thought the print was particularly lovely. But if a dress plunges in the front it should not plunge in the back and visa-versa. Without that counterbalance it's impossible to keep the dress on the shoulders unless you use tape or body glue. It fails all wearability tests, and wearability was part of the challenge. For this reason Michael was particularly lucky that he didn't go home.

Last and eliminated was Kenley. This dress bothered me for all the reasons various people mentioned and more. I suppose it was nice enough in idea, but I had the following problems: 1) she shouldn't have used that large print for this silhouette, the design fights with the fabric; 2) she should have at least tried to match the pattern and/or place the pattern more carefully when cutting; 3) the trim on the sleeves ruined the inherent movement of the fabric; 4) the neckline was too high which killed the proportions; 5) she should have kept the keyhole; and 6) all things said and done this dress is frumpy. Additionally I could not believe the attitude she gave Nanette LePore during the workroom critique. She can't even listen to critique let alone internalize any advice that might help her improve her designs or sellability. She kept saying she was "sticking to her vision," but no one was ever trying to change her vision, they were honestly trying to help her make the best possible version of her vision. P.S. The outfit that Kelney wore for judging was adorable.

One more week and then what fashions will we discuss? Leave ideas in the comments if you got 'em.

Project Runway All Stars: Avant-Garde in Lights

This week the designers were required to use lights to make avant garde designs that would be shown on the runway under black lights. Even more specifically, the design had to be appropriate for a stage performance for one of renaissance man Pharrell Williams' musical clients. (Client unspecified.)

Now, avant-garde challenges aren't my favorite. I suppose I just want some semblance to practicability in fashion, no matter how small that semblance may be. In light of that, I find that critiquing this challenge was about immediate gut feeling more than anything else.

For the most part my gut agreed with the judges this week, except for Austin's winning design. I'm not romantic in nature or in aesthetics, so I just wasn't crazy about his dress. I was impressed with the shape he got out of that giant overskirt, but I thought the rest of the dress looked a little sloppy and ill constructed. Or course, none of that really matters when you turn off the lights, and it really was refreshing that he didn't use neon. I did agree with the judges that the lights should have been distributed more throughout the skirt and between layers of netting and tulle.

I may sound like a broken record, but again Mondo was my favorite. I'll admit that it's probably because his design was the least "out there." After I poo-pooed his styling last week, he really ramped it up to make a complete look. I loved the weird little helmet he made. It was all very TRON. He also showed a lot of forethought in incorporating his lights by encasing them in the design rather tacking them on top like the rest of the designers did, and in that respect he was more innovative.

Kenley's dress was her same old dress shape. I could not for the life of me understand why she didn't match the plaids on the bodice! Again! But with a top covering it, I suppose it didn't really matter. However, the construction of the dress and the spacing of the plaid she made with the tape looked practically flawless. I have to say that I kind of loved that gird top she made. It was wacky but interesting. I think it would have been even better if she sandwiched lights between two layers of that grid fabric and made it glow from the inside.

I was worried for Michael. I did not like his outfit when it turned the corner. The general dress silhouette with the stiff loops in the front was great, and I loved the big lights running on the inside of those loops. It was the over-abundance of neon green and that shapeless "bow" on the back that got me down. But with a little editing of the neon tape, and throwing that "bow" straight in the trash, I can totally picture Lady Gaga in this getup looking all sorts of ninja.

I thought Jarell was going somewhere great with his dress in the beginning. That peplum piece was looking fantastic. But as soon as his outfit turned the corner I knew he would be in the bottom simply based on the maxi pencil skirt. It made the whole look awkward and cumbersome. He was also too heavy handed with his styling, which really weighed everything down. And so, he was eliminated. I can't say that I'm terribly sorry to see him go.

Afterthoughts:
Was it just me, or did everything look much better in the online photos than on the television?

Did you see Austin's silver and black sequin top in the first 15 minutes of the show? It was incredible.

How lame was it when Joanna said this challenge was certainly the most "electrifying" challenge on PR? Serious eye rolling happened.

"They're called fairy lights...coincidentally enough." Austin describing the lights he purchased.

"I live for Teletubbies. Seriously." Isaac Mizrahi, ladies and gentlemen.

Bonus from the PR website: The many faces of Austin Scarlet.